Dust Mite Information & Facts

 The allergens originating from dust mites are the world's second greatest cause of allergies, behind pollen, and are significant triggers of asthma attacks.

Estimates are that as high as fifteen to twenty percent of the earth’s total population is allergic to the allergens produced by dust mites. Dust mites are microscopic creatures that are the second leading cause of allergy, behind pollen.

There are two dust mites: Dermatophagoides farinae is the North American house dust mite and Dermatophagoides pteronyssinus is the European dust mite.

Dust mites are most closely related to spiders and ticks. They have eight hairy legs, no eyes, no antennae, a mouthpart group in front of the body) and a tough, translucent shell. These mites are about .25 – .30 millmeters in size and cannot be seen without magnification.

Adult dust mites live for about a month and female dust mites live for about 8 to 10 weeks. The female lays eggs singly or in small groups. From egg to adult takes about 3 to 4 weeks. If humans or pets live in your house, you have dust mites. No special test is needed to check, it is a fact.

Dust mites collect, live, and breed where food is readily available. The dust mite feeds on shed human and animal skin cells. However, if necessary dust mites will feed on fish food flakes, pet food kibble, fungi, and cereal crumbs.

Since fiber-filled surfaces collect the most dust mite food, they have the highest concentrations of dust mites and their waste products. Dust mites are most at homes in mattresses (it doesn’t matter if it is a conventional or some special foam mattress), pillows, box springs, blankets, sheets, upholstered furniture, rugs, carpets, draperies, curtains, sheets, decorative fabric panels and tapestries hung on walls, pet beds, as well as the interiors of automobiles. They like it dark, warm and moist.

Ohio State University reports that a typical used mattress may contain 100,000 to 10 million mites inside. Ten percent of the weight of a two year old pillow can be composed of dead mites and their droppings! Gross!

Over their life span, the mite will produce hundreds of fecal pellets. It is a protein in the fecal pellets that cause allergic reactions in humans. In addition, as the mite grows, it sheds its exoskeletons and this also contains the protein that causes allergy.

Dust mites do not bite you. You can not feel them crawling on you. The allergic symptoms are caused by inhaling the microscopic fecal matter and shed skins. Symptoms of dust mite allergy include but are not limited to respiratory such as sneezing, runny nose, stuffy nose, cough, difficulty breathing, and asthma. In addition, skin symptoms such as eczema and dermatitis can result. Rashes and hives are rarely a symptom of dust mite allergy.

There are no pesticides currently labeled in the United States for the treatment of dust mites. In fact it does little good to actually kill dust mites, as dead dust mites bodies still contain the problem causing protein and killing dust mites does nothing to remove the fecal matter. However, benzyl benzoate and tannic acid have been shown to be effective in laboratory and field tests. Benzyl benzoate is one of the active ingredients in De-Mite and tannic acid is the active ingredient in X-Mite powder and ADS spray.

Dust mite control is all about controlling the places dust mites congregate. The fewer fiber-filled surfaces in a room or a house the fewer places for the dust mites to set up housekeeping. The most common recommendations are to use vinyl, wood, or other hard surface blinds instead of curtains or draperies; remove all carpeting and rugs and use wood, vinyl, or tile flooring; replace all fabric upholstered furniture with leather upholstered furniture and remove all books, lamps, knick-knacks and dust catching items from a room. However, no one wants to live in a bare bubble. So what can be done?

Effective dust mite control can be achieved by taking the following steps:

Keep only one bed in the bedroom. Most important, encase the box springs, mattress, pillows and duvets in a dust mite mattress cover (zippered encasement). If a second bed must be in the room, prepare it in the same manner.

Use only washable materials on the bed. Sheets, blankets, and other bedclothes should be washed weekly in water that is at least 130 F. Lower temperatures will not kill dust mites. If you set your hot water temperature to a lower value (which is commonly done to prevent children from scalding themselves), wash items with allergen control products like De-Mite Or Allersearch Allerwash specially designed products that kill dust mite allergens in warm and cold water.

Keep all animals with fur or feathers out of the room. People allergic to dust mites often are allergic to cats, dogs, or other animals. If you can't, treat the pet with pet friendly allergy control products.

If the dust-sensitive person is a child, keep toys out of the bedroom that will accumulate dust. Use washable asthma friendly stuffed toys is possible or toys of wood, rubber, metal, or plastic, and store them in a closed toy box or chest.

Wash curtains regularly with De-Mite or AllerSearch Lab’s Allergen Wash. If you must have draperies, treat them regularly with an anti-allergen denaturing spray such as Allersearch’s ADMSor ADS Spray

Carpeting makes dust control impossible. Although deep pile carpets are the worst type for the dust-sensitive person, all carpets trap dust. Therefore, hardwood, tile, or linoleum floors are preferred. Treating carpets with X-Mite carpet treatment, a tannic acid based products eliminates dust mite allergen, but tannic acid is not as effective as removing the carpet, it is irritating to some people, and must be reapplied every 90 days.

> Minimize the use of fans, as they cause dust to become airborne

> Dust frequently with damp rags or rags treated with AllerDust

> High-energy particulate absorption (HEPA) air cleaners like Austin Air Healthmate can effectively    remove many allergens from the air.

> Clean, dust, and vacuum bedrooms early in the day stay out of the room for 1-2 hours after cleaning.

> Vacuum with a sealed canister vacuum fitted with a post motor HEPA filter, such as those made by  Vapamore or Miele

Dust mites absorb water from the environment and from their food source. A dehumidifer may be helpful because house mites require high humidity to live and grow. Care should be taken to clean the unit frequently to prevent mold growth. However, while low humidity may reduce dust mite levels, it also may irritate the nose and lungs of some people

> Wear a dust mask when cleaning if you are the one with allergies.

It is impossible to rid your home of dust mites, but by taking these steps, you can reduce your exposure thereby reducing your allergic reactions. Also remember that having dust mites is not a refection of how you keep your house. Dust mites are found in the finest homes and hotels across the globe.

Wishing you the best of heatlh

Source: https://www.allergystore.com/news/dust-mite-information-facts.html

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Homekeeping Help: 7 Tips For Maintaining Your Mattress

A mattress is a big investment and rightly so: the quality of your sleep has a profound effect on the quality of your life and how well you function. Since we spend about a third of our lives sleeping, it's worth it to take a few moments to keep it functioning at its best. Try out these tips every few months to keep your mattress in tip-top shape!

• Strip your mattress down: Inspect the mattress for surface soil and stains. Spot clean using an upholstery shampoo or a tiny bit of diluted mild soap and let dry before you make up the bed again. Let dry thoroughly.
• Flip or rotate it every season: Turn the foot of the mattress so it becomes the head. Next season, flip it over. Rotate it the following season and flip it the season after that. If your mattress is a pillowtop, you won't be able to flip it over so just keep rotating it head to foot and foot to head. The result of these mattress acrobatics is that your mattress will wear evenly, free of the sags that come from constantly sleeping in the same spot. Even doing this every six months helps.
• Place it in the sun: We're not suggesting you drag it outside, but placing it in direct sunlight can naturally disinfect your mattress. If you've spot cleaned your mattress, do this step before you flip it over.
• Vacuum it: Even if you keep it covered with a mattress covere, it's a good idea to vacuum it to keep the dust mites at bay. After you've flipped and stripped your mattress, sprinkle it with a few handfuls of lavender (If you live near a Trader Joe's, try their lavender drying bags) before you place it in the sun. Not only will the lavender keep it fresh smelling but the scent is said to enhance sleep. No lavender? Try baking soda. Vacuum up the lavender or the baking soda.
• Now cover it with a mattress cover: A mattress cover protects your mattress and it's easier to wash a mattress cover if you spill something in bed (your morning coffee perhaps?) than a whole mattress. Try one that's made to keep dust mites at bay.
• Change your sheets regularly: Simply changing your sheets on a regular basis (once a week in most cases), can help keep dirt from collecting on your mattress and becoming a breeding ground for dust mites.
• Final trick: I like to tuck a used dryer sheet or sachet (all natural, of course) under our sheets when we make up our bed. They absorb odors and impart a pleasant scent.

Source: http://www.apartmenttherapy.com/homekeeping-tips-to-keep-your-125606

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Tips to Keep your Fabric Sofa in Top Condition

One of the biggest decisions in selecting a sofa is the choice of sofa covering. While leather and fabric both have their benefits for the winter months, for fabric devotees, fabric's cosy feel, versatility and degree of customisation make it an appealing choice.

King Furniture's resident trends expert, Triana Odone, says fabric choice will come down to personal preference and lifestyle. Almost as important as choosing the fabric for your sofa is learning how to care for it.

1. Vacuum fabric sofas regularly with an upholstery attachment using low suction.

2. Clean spills/marks immediately, as stains are harder to remove when they are left unattended.

3. Use suitable Cleaner on spills and marks, as general household cleaners can damage fibres and discolour fabrics. Always refer to your fabric care label.

4. Prevent velcro and sharp objects such as rings or buckles from coming into contact with your furniture, as they may cause pulling or tearing of fabric.

5. Prevent pilling with regular vacuuming and cleaning to remove dirt and any loose fibres. Should pilling occur, a Fabric Pill Remover (available at department stores) is safe to use.

6. Protect fabrics from direct sunlight as this can result in fading, and weaken fibres.

7. Protect fabric at production stage. This extends fabric's life by allowing liquid spills to 'bead' on the surface, becoming easier to soak up.

8. Organise an annual professional clean by an upholstery cleaner to maintain your sofa's condition.

Source: https://www.lifestyle.com.au/diy/tips-to-keep-your-fabric-sofa-in-top-condition.aspx

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Do I Really Need to Wax My Car?

Do I really need to wax my car?

The answer is: Probably. Waxing has always made cars extra shiny. That's still the case today, but both modern paint jobs and wax formulations have improved a lot in recent years. Paint used to be just thatpaint. A new car got a layer of primer and a few coats of colored lacquer, and that was it. Wax not only gave the paint a good gloss, it was also the only line of defense against scratches.

Beginning in the 1980s, manufacturers started adding a layer of clear coat, which seals the paint and adds to the shine of the car. The clear coat also takes the environmental abuse. Things like ultraviolet light, ozone, exhaust, salt, dirt, rain, bug guts, and bird poop build up tiny scratches and oxidation on the clear coat's surface. As the paint ages, that damage causes the surface to get hazy and the shine to subside, but there's generally no damage to the color layer below. Not waxing will leave the car looking dull and the clear coat vulnerable to accelerated wear. If you don't particularly care how the car looks, you can be lazy and never wax itjust keeping the car washed will leave it looking reasonably nice (use a gentle soap made for carsno detergents). Waxing provides a sacrificial layer on top of the clear coat so that when you remove dirt and such you're not directly rubbing the paint.

Things have changed substantially since dads spent Sunday afternoons rubbing carnauba wax onto lacquer car paint. Now even that classic formulation has additives that make it easier to wax on and wax off. New synthetic formulas are even simpler to apply and offer longer-lasting protection, and spray-on waxes can be applied with almost no effort at all. Plus, you don't need to wax that often. Even if you obsess over your paint, four coats of wax a year are plenty, and you can use spray-on wax to maintain the shine. We like to wax the car at least twice a year, once before winter and once in the spring.

Source: http://www.popularmechanics.com/cars/how-to/a3255/do-i-really-need-to-wax-my-car-15829917/

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14 Cleaning Mistakes You Don't Need to Make

Even the most well-meaning (and enthusiastic!) cleaner can get it wrong from time to time – here are 15 common cleaning mistakes you don’t want to make.

1. Going too heavy on the laundry detergent

Too much laundry liquid can cause smells to become trapped in fabric - it’s a common cause of armpit odour build up and mildewed towels. Being heavy handed with the washing powder can also shorten the life of your washing machine because it creates extra suds. This foam builds up between the outer drum wall and the inner drum of the washer, often creating a suction issue, causing the motor to burn out.

2. Using the wrong kind of laundry detergent

We’re not talking brands here. Using a detergent designed for the type of machine you have is important. Why? Front-loading machines use much less water in general and more mechanical action (turning), and detergents made for front loaders have an anti-foam ingredient. So if you use a top loading formulation, you’ll once again have an avalanche of suds to build up and shorten the life of your machine.

3. Going too heavy on the cleaning products

Amount also counts when it comes to other household cleaning products, as they can build up and leave residue on surfaces. Cleaning expert for Helping Australia, Johann Grunberger, says soap and detergent residue can also aid the growth of bacteria. Use a damp microfibre cloth where you can, and use products sparingly when you do bring them out.

4. Believing vinegar cleans everything

While vinegar is good to lift stains and clean laundry, Johann says it’s important to note it is acidic, meaning it shouldn’t be used on granite and marble countertops or stone floor tiles as it can etch the surface.

5. Using the same cleaning cloth in different surfaces

Always remember to change the cloths when you’re cleaning different places because the bacteria from the bathroom and kitchen can infect surfaces from other rooms. "Ideally you should keep one cloth for each area of the house," Johann says.

6. Using a duster

Dusters are good at flinging dust into the air (your broom can be guilty of the same cleaning crime), while microfiber cloths are designed to trap them.

7. Not caring for your rubber gloves

While rubber gloves might protect us from germs on the outside, Johann says the humidity inside the gloves is a perfect habitat for bacteria. If you like to use them, he recommends placing them in hot water mixed with 2 teaspoons of vinegar and a little detergent for 10-15 minutes after each use. Afterwards, wring out the gloves and leave them to dry in a cool place.

8. Using the wrong tool for the job

Be careful not to use too abrasive a scrub on delicate surfaces, the co-founder at UrbanYou, Elke Keeley, says. Using steel wool or harsh sponges can work wonders to remove stubborn grime, but they also wreak havoc on delicate surfaces such as plastic and ceramic cooktops, and may even scratch non-stick coatings.

9. Wet before dry

Forgetting to thoroughly vacuum, dust or sweep before mopping simply moves dust, dirt and grime around, rather than picking it up, says Elke.

10. Scrubbing stains out of carpets

This can actually cause the particles of the stain to get ground into the carpet fibres, which can lead to the stain becoming even worse. A much better approach is to blot the stain, as this will apply just enough pressure to pick the stain up rather than spreading it around the carpet.

11. Applying stain removers without spot testing

Using a stain remover can potentially ruin your carpet beyond repair. If you catch the stain early enough then water should suffice, but if it has been there for a while then shaving cream can work wonders. Always use caution with stain removal on any surface - make sure you’ve picked the correct stain remover, and spot tested in a hidden spot first.

12. Neglecting to clean your ‘cleaners’

The inside of a dishwasher should be cleaned monthly, Johann says. It is a perfect place for fungus and black yeast to grow. Pour vinegar into a dishwasher-safe cup and place it on the top rack of the dishwasher (empty) and run it for a full cycle at a hot temperature. The same can be said for your washing machine, which can also be cleaned out by running a very hot cycle with a cup of vinegar (also make sure you get in and clean out the rubber seal around the door and clean the filter).

13. Neglecting the outdoor paint work

Shutters, wooden painted fences, posts or window sills build up dirt and dust over time the same way our windows sills and skirting boards do indoors. If you leave it too long to clean, the dust will because stubborn and you may damage it when giving it the more vigorous clean it will then require.

14. Leaving mess to hang around too long

Prema Deva from All Pure Cleaning says it’s always better to clean and tidy as you go - and regularly - instead of once every now and then, because it can take hours when you leave things to accumulate, and as with the outdoors, items can deteriorate when neglected.

Source: https://www.lifestyle.com.au/diy/14-cleaning-mistakes-you-dont-need-to-make.aspx

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Top Ten Car Care Tips

What you can do yourself to keep your car on the road
If everything on TV were true, then keeping a vehicle running great, looking good, and lasting a long time would be the easiest thing ever. Advertising will tell us over and over that all we really need to do to keep that car or truck running forever and looking brand new for years is to pour some bottles of miracle liquid into the crankcase, sprinkle magic dust on the paint, or spray some sort of ionized wonder water on the interior. Unfortunately this is not the case.

Following the old adage that "if it sounds too good to be true it probably is" comes the news that regular, proper care and maintenance are what really keep vehicles going into the high six-figure mileage ranges. Miracle cures, magic fairy dust, mystery polymers and the like are all fine and good for infomercials, but most likely won't do much good for your vehicle.

Regularly scheduled maintenance and lubrication using the manufacturers recommended type and formulation of oil, grease and liquids is what will do the trick. Replacing normal wear-and-tear parts such as timing belts before they break is also a good path to follow on the road to long vehicle life. Taking good care of your vehicle can make the difference between being the proud owner of a good looking, long lasting, reliable machine, and saying goodbye to a rusty, faded-paint jalopy that fell apart or broke down long before it was designed to.

The Maintenance Difference
We all know somebody with an older, high-mileage vehicle that just keeps on running year after year---that crazy uncle in the high-mileage ride that keeps on going strong. "What's Uncle Fred's secret?" you may wonder, scratching your head with one hand while holding a repair bill in the other? At its core, Uncle Fred's 500,000-mile 1972 Datsun 610 is no different a vehicle than a two-year-old hulk that barely cleared 65,000 miles before it got hooked up to the wrecker truck, never to be seen again. While the short-lived heap has since been crushed, melted down, and built into another car, Uncle Fred keeps on trucking.

The secret is that there is no real secret to getting a vehicle to last a long time. The difference is maintenance. Regular fluid checks and an almost pious dedication to scheduled lubrication will keep the powertrain going strong. What kind of oil, brake fluid, and grease used is just as important as when it is changed. The best oil in the world will do your engine no good if you never change it. Cleaning and protecting the finishes of the vehicle inside and out will keep things looking good. Paint, plastic, leather, and fabric need help to survive the constant assault of sun and elements. Utilize both of these plans together and you, like Uncle Fred, will enjoy happy motoring for a good, long time. Follow the accompanying 10 handy tips for keeping your vehicle in top shape.

Tip 1
Check and change the oil. No single step will help an engine last more than regular oil and filter changes will. Conversely, nothing will destroy an engine faster than neglecting oil-level checks or fresh-oil changes.

Tip 2
Flush the cooling system and change coolant once a year. A 50/50 mix of coolant and distilled water will keep the cooling system in good shape and prevent corrosion and deposits from building up inside the cooling system.

Tip 3
Change out transmission and differential oils. While not requiring frequent service, these fluids must be changed according to service intervals. Always use transmission fluid or gear oil of the recommended type and viscosity.

Tip 4
Keep it clean. While washing the outside of the vehicle is obvious, most everything the vehicle ran over can also get stuck to the underside. Hosing off winter salt and road grime is a good idea.

Tip 5
Everything with moving parts needs grease to survive. This ball joint went into early retirement due to poor lubrication.

Tip 6
Nothing keeps paint looking good and protected like a coat of quality wax. Apply wax at least every six months.

Tip 7
Driveline components such as u-joints also require regular lubrication. The driveline may have to be removed to access the zerk grease fitting

Tip 8
Protect the interior plastic by parking the vehicle in the shade, using a window deflector screen, and applying a UV protectant to prevent the plastic and vinyl from drying out.

Tip 9
Inspect, clean, and repack wheel bearings with wheel bearing grease according to service intervals. Wheel bearings and grease are inexpensive compared to spindle and hub replacement, or liberated wheels rolling down the road ahead of you.

Tip 10
Brake fluid is hygroscopic. This means it is adept at attracting moisture. Moisture causes components to corrode and fail. Replace fluid and bleed system once a year. Brake fluid is cheap. Calipers, hoses, and sensors are expensive.

Source: http://www.kbb.com/car-advice/articles/top-ten-car-care-tips/

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How often you should clean your dishwasher — and how to do it

That glorious machine in your kitchen that cleans dishes does in fact need to be cleaned itself.

Over time grease, soap scum and food debris build up in dishwashers. Not only does this provide a breeding ground for germs, it also reduces the efficiency of the appliance.

According to house maintenance expert Bob Vila, you should clean your dishwasher once a month. Fortunately, his three-step process is easy to do and doesn’t require any special tools.

Step 1: Clear the drain

Remove the bottom dish rack. Inspect the dishwasher drain, removing any gunk or food caught there. This will improve drainage, increase cleaning efficiency and prevent damage to the dishwasher.

Step 2: Vinegar wash

Start with an empty dishwasher. Place a cup of white vinegar in a dishwasher-safe container on the upper rack of the machine. Run the dishwasher through a hot-water cycle. This will wash away grease and grime and remove musty odors, too.

Step 3: Baking soda rinse

Sprinkle one cup of baking soda across the bottom of the dishwasher. Run a short hot-water cycle. The dishwasher will be fresh-smelling and have a brightened, stain-free interior.

Source: http://www.today.com/series/how-often-should-you/how-clean-dishwasher-t17946

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Who Was Murphy and Why Is There a Bed Named After Him?

The Murphy Bed, also known as a wall bed, fold down bed or pull down bed, is a bed that’s hinged at one end so it can be folded up and stored vertically against a wall or in a closet. It’s useful in situations where floor space is at a premium, like studio apartments, dorm rooms, mobile homes and cruise ship cabins.

The bed is named, no surprise, after a guy named Murphy—William L. Murphy.

These kinds of beds had already been around in other forms for a while. Thomas Jefferson had his beds in Monticello hanging on ropes and hooks in the alcoves of the bedrooms, and Leonard Bailey received the first patent for a folding bed in 1899. Murphy’s innovation was at the bed’s point of folding. Using an old closet doorjamb and some door hinges, he built a pivot that allowed the bed to attach to a wall and fold up against it for easy storage.

The son of a gold-seeking 49er, Murphy worked a few different jobs around California before he came up with his invention. He broke in horses for a while, drove a stagecoach, and even served as sheriff of a little pioneer town. At the turn of the 20th century, he made his way to San Francisco and rented a tiny one-room apartment on Bush Street, which inspired his leap into the bed business.

KNOW WHEN TO FOLD 'EM

The Murphy Bed Company says that Murphy’s standard bed took up most of the apartment’s floor space, which made having company a little difficult. Murphy wanted to entertain his friends at his home, so he began toying around with the folding bed idea.

As Gene Kolakowski, an executive at the company, told CBS News, though, there’s an alternate origin story where Murphy’s incentive was much greater. The version that Murphy’s descendants like to tell is that he designed the folding bed because he wanted to have a certain young lady over to his place, but the moral standards of the time deemed it inappropriate to have a woman in his bedroom. Desperate for some quality courting time with the woman, Murphy was inspired to find a way to instantly turn his bedroom into a more innocent living room.

Murphy eventually married that same girl and used a loan from her father to patent the “Murphy In-A-Dor Bed” and start his own company to make them. That same company continues to make them today, almost 100 years later. The beds aren’t as popular as they once were, though. Demand peaked in the early 1900s as manufacturing became the focus of the American economy and people flocked to jobs in urban areas. Disaster in the bed’s hometown caused a spike in sales, too.

After the San Francisco Earthquake and Fire of 1906, the beds were placed in many new and rebuilt buildings to maximize space (according to Gladys Hansen, a curator at the Museum of the City of San Francisco, some of the beds already installed in the city folded up violently during the quake, injuring their occupants and killing at least one).

The Great Depression, the rationing of steel and other raw materials during WWII, and the post-war suburban housing boom all cut into the folding bed business, but the market is still big enough to support Murphy’s original company, plus a few competitors. In 1989 the courts ruled that the “Murphy bed” was no longer entitled to trademark protection because the public had come to see it as a generic term for beds that fold into walls, whether they were Murphy’s design or not.

Source: http://mentalfloss.com/article/30266/who-was-murphy-and-why-there-bed-named-after-him

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History of carpet

Where do you like to do your homework? Some kids may have desks in their bedrooms at home. Others may spread their books out across the kitchen table while their parents cook dinner. Still others enjoy throwing a few pillows on the floor and lounging on that warm, comfortable surface we all know and love. What are we talking about? Carpet, of course!

Whether it's sliding out of bed on a cool, crisp winter morning or relaxing in front of the television to watch a movie, there's nothing quite like the warmth and softness of carpet under our feet and bodies. Many of us take for granted the plush carpeting in our homes that caresses our feet as we walk across it daily.

Imagine what it must have been like for prehistoric human beings who took shelter in primitive caves. What would it have felt like to walk, sit, and sleep on nothing but cold, hard rock? It probably didn't take long before ancient humans began to use animal skins, plant leaves, and other soft materials to line the floors of their caves.

Were these types of materials the first carpets? No one knows for sure. We do know, however, that carpet does have a long and interesting history. Historians have found evidence of animals, such as goats and sheep, being sheared for hair and wool that could be spun and woven over 9,000 years ago. Knotted-pile carpet rugs are thought to have developed in western Asia 4,000-5,000 years ago.

The oldest carpet ever discovered is the Pazyryk carpet, which is a pile carpet rug discovered in a Siberian burial mound in 1949. Experts believe it is over 6,000 years old, dating back to the 5th century B.C. Preserved in ice for thousands of years, the Pazyryk carpet features rich colors in a dense pile of symmetrical double knots.

In the United States, the earliest carpets were large rugs made of woven wool. Using large looms brought from England, woven carpet mills began to develop in cities along the East Coast. In fact, the U.S. carpet industry got its start in 1791 when William Sprague started a woven carpet mill in Philadelphia, Pennsylvania. The industry continued to expand over time, as technology allowed high-quality carpets to be manufactured quickly.

Wall-to-wall tufted carpets like we enjoy today have their own unique history independent of their woven wool predecessors. In fact, they got their start as handcrafted bedspreads in the small town of Dalton, Georgia.

Around the turn of the 20th century, a young woman in Dalton named Catherine Evans Whitener made a handcrafted bedspread as a wedding gift. Using a quilt pattern she had seen, she sewed thick cotton yarn onto unbleached muslin fabric. To make the bedspread softer, she clipped the ends of the yarn, so that they would fluff out.

Over the next several decades, her process for making bedspreads became extremely popular, and entire families began to make a living by hand-tufting bedspreads. Demand for these bedspreads was high and spread to large cities around the U.S. Income from making bedspreads helped many Dalton-area families survive the Great Depression.

Eventually, machines were developed to automate the tufting process. Mills sprang up in and around Dalton, and new products were developed, including broadloom carpets. After World War II, new synthetic fibers were developed to replace wool and cotton, including polyester, nylon, rayon, and acrylics.

Today, tufted broadloom carpets made of synthetic fibers account for over 90% of the carpet market. Dalton remains at the center of the carpet industry, producing over 70% of world-wide carpet output. That's why Dalton is known as the "Carpet Capital of the World."

Source: http://wonderopolis.org/wonder/who-invented-carpet

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